Srila Gour Govinda Swami Thakura, 1978 visit to Jaggnathpura
We set out from Bhubaneswara early, taking bicycle rickshaw to the bus station. While waiting to board, Gour Govinda Swami explained to me the qualities of certain round white sweet balls which I had noted, displayed behind glass cases there. "These are a specialty of Bhubaneswara", he explained, "They cook sugar with cardamon, camphor, ghee, and black pepper, until it is well done and very hard. Very tasty, very sweet !" He smiled with an exclamation. Maharajah did not eat many sweets, or very rarely, neither did we have them about the ashrama much, and we had no taste for sweets shopping that early.
I moved into the ashrama from Canada, so after a while, I started to purchase occasional white-cardboard boxes of milk-sweets, in town. There were two shops I knew of, one fairly near the train station. I discovered the milk cake and misti dahi consequently. It was too much to ask to live so frugally, active very young man, eating dahlma once a day with capatis and rice and very little oil or ghee, every so often some milk in evening, and not spend any money on at least some occasional supplementary milk products. I had lost a lot of weight.
For a Western devotee, though used to Iskcon austerity, this was too much like the old days in New Vrndavana, in fact, more austere, if that was possible ! Soon, we started offering some pieces to Gour Nitai almost every day, at Gaura artik, and/or some hot milk. That prasadam helped us with better bodily strength.
That is another story, how the milkman gradually daily watered down the milk until it was virtually just grey water. We would complain, then the cycle would start over again, with at first real milk and good, then getting watery with time.
Next time through the Bus station though, I tried these odd local specialities, and later prepared them for Lord Jaggannatha in Montreal Radha Manohara mandira. Apparently, it is somewhat of an acquired taste! - though I liked them well enough. "Milk cake" is more the healthy Bhubaneswara local specialty, and sweet dahi, yogurt, in brown clay cups.
The buses were old style, wooden slat bound the windows, some with glass in them. They audibly revved up when they set out, and the exhaust was dark gray and less than saintly smelling. The wooden benches were adequate, for about an hour, after which one starts to shift around, and after a day on such a bus, one is ready to sprawl out on the floor even just to get away from holding one's neck up against the constant shaking and bumping. ITC, India Transit Corp. did their best. But they were on time, and often packed with travellers, with so many trunks piled on the roof rack, tossed up or off by off-white-attired dark skinned wiry men with the strength of country farm-hands. Luggage was then tied against unforeseen holes or humps in the holy pot-holed hi-ways.
We quietly chanted our rounds as the bus set off for Jagannathpur, not the famous Shankha-ksetra, Jagannatha Puri, but a much smaller village, still within the limits of the dhama, as is Bhubaneswara, gateway of the dhama. Maharajaha's home town is there, and his Deity.
As a rule, devotees of Bhubaneswara temple were seen and heard to be chanting when not otherwise engaged. We constantly chanted, or worked towards that. Anyway, this was Maharajah's home Deity's village, an old village of kirtaniyas and Caitanya bhaktas. This rural village turned out to be Maharajah's home town, as I learned later.
Among the fields of the countryside, Gopaljiu resided for generations, a Blackish Krishna Deity Whose pastimes were famous in Orissa. They were almost all Rupa-nuga Vaisnavas, as well as a few Buddhists, in this area. Gour Govinda's family were reputed and much appreciated kirtaniyas, enthusiasts of Harinama sankirtana, following the traditions from Sri Caitanya Mahaprabhu's followers. He had himself learned sastra and Deity worship at a very young age, exactly like Srila Prabhupada had, albeit, in a more rural and Oriyan setting.
At one stop, not understanding the schedule, I wandered off to buy a dob, a green coconut to drink, and when I got back, Maharajah informed me in a mildy amused yet urgent voice, that I had held up the bus while they were waiting for me, and he had to stop them from leaving. I felt a little embarrassed, something easy for me. Gour Govinda was our resident renunciant-family head-member, and though we all respected him so highly and would rather die than serve unfavorably or offend him, yet he never made us feel unsure of ourselves around him, we always felt safe and secure and protected, like not even a nuclear bomb couldn't touch us, as Maharajah was present. He would just laugh in his beautiful and boisterous chuckling way, and say " What can be done? You understand? Chant Hare Krishna! "
Anyway, that's me, I'm afraid, sometimes stupidly causing some kind of minor scene, it seems, while trying to live as inconspicuous as is possible for a white person while wearing a saffron dhoti and sandals in India. At the time, for me, it was a perfect and inspiring life of purity and growing enthusiasm for chanting.
Actually, we were a staunch and rather pure brahmacaries at the time, if you pardon my saying so. Even other renunciants, such as devotees visiting from Bombay or New York,would comment such as "How do you manage to stay here?" referring to the simple austerity of our sitting on the floor in our little hut, a very rural lifestyle in the middle of nowhere near Bhubaneswara . Perhaps they had responsibilities which burdened them in their home opulent city temples, and could not realize as much as we the true freedom and sweetness of simple Krsna conscious renunciation in Srila Prabhupada's seva. We were for sure Vrndavana as opposed to Mathura Puri!
Arriving at the station next to Jagannathpur in about three hours, there was a bit of a hike, a ride on a bullock cart, and soon enough we reached the village. The elders and many villagers greeted Maharajah, some with great joy and some with tears in their eyes. We were led to a clean cottage, and there we camped out.
Next morning, as I am a migraine sufferer, I was doing a few basic hatha manouevers to maintain chi flow or whatever it was that worked so well, and some local Vaisnava boys were laughing to see a bhakta doing hatha. But Maharajah scolded them, saying, "No, you should not laugh. This is very healthy. These exercises are very good. " Thus, he set an example that we should do the Vedic things necessary for health. He later told me not to eat or drink much water for at least an hour before doing hatha, and not for three hours afterwards, to get the full benefits, that people do yoga, but they do not follow properly, therefore there is no real benefits for them, in this Kali yuga time. "Therefore, we recommend simply chant Hare Krishna." He also explained that eating three nim leaves and not eating after five o'clock would help one stay disease free. He alos extolled drinking water before bed, so that when one woke up early to pass water, one then could stay up and chant.
There was a large gathering at the local school. All the important and leading men of the village were there. Maharajah led a brief kirtan, I tried to play my fibreglass mrdanga from Balarama Drum. Had i realized these men were true traditional village expert Vaisnava mrdanga and instrument players, I would have been way too ashamed to dare pick up a mrdanga before them, lol, good thing i was naive, and bold enough being Iskcon.
I accompanied Maharajaha on several various expeditions for preaching, and often played the drum for village tour, Hon. S. Mahanty's residence Bhub temple, and Mayapura I am just in my mind listing the ones I quickly recall, from outside our ashrama.
They all wanted to hear me speak! It was mortifying, as I was just a young brahmacary, and here was a Mahabhagavata sannyasi, and they wanted me, the white kid, aged 23 ish. So alright, understandable, they wished to see what I was about, so I wowed them with some well-known slokas and thus impressed them all, then Maharajah spoke, mostly in Oriya. As ever, he pointed out clearly Lord Krsna's words and the importance of following Srila Prabhupada. As ever, I could follow his Sanskrita slokas and see the sincerity, and would listen to every word because it purified one even if one did not know exactly the Oriya language. It was also highly entertaining for devotees. Gour Govinda Swami was kinda like our heavy-hitter boxer in the ring against maya ! His lectures were scholarly, yet simple and undeniably true !
Years later, Sri Swayambhu Maharajah, my dear old-time ex-Buddhist now pure Iskcon Bhubaneswara Vaisnava friend was giving a class, in Oriya, which I do not know. Yet, an initiated disciple of Gour Govinda Swami now, He is so pure and venerable, that I just sat and listened chanting softly, as it was purifying to hear him also, just because the mood of pure devotion and the auspiciousness of the revered company was worth full attention. Swayambhu was impressed by this, and pointed this out to the assembly of devotees, that enthusiasm to hear, even one could not understand, I think he used me as an example of some kind.
I remembered how Srila Prabhupada spoke of enthusiasm to hear Srila Bhaktisiddhanta Saraswati, and that this was a particularly good quality noted by the Master, and so I emulated, but in this case, it was spontaneous, not practised, as Bhubanaeswara is home for many wonderful and pure devotees. These are refined and simple subtle persons, not quite like we often uncivilized Winnipeg-types, either in dhoti or pants.
This is the same room, same building, there is his trunk for writing, the silver cup on the water jug. I occupied another corner, Bhagavata Prabhu yet the other. The door and a heavy black landline corded phone was on the floor next to the glassless window in the fourth quadrant. This video is 1981, shortly after i left for sankirtan at the Montreal temple. Nandikeswara stole the money I made that year, roughly 14,400$.
Tamohara dasa, 1974
After the sanga, we all sat in rows on the packed-earth courtyard, surrounded by low earthwork cottages with thatched roofs and painted white, light green, and some a pale blue. It was a very clean vilage. Palm trees waved gently, and soon prasadam of rice and dahl and red tomato chutney with puris was served on green banana leaves. We enjoyed in a festive mood. I noted that no one touched their food until Maharajah did, and no one left until he finished eating. I really relished this roots-level culture of humans, Vaisnava humans, and learned better respect for elders and social cohesion thereby, and also noticed how it was pleasing and satisfying to the Self to know how to be a Vaisnava human.
I had just earlier met Svayambu prabhu, who at the time had recently converted to Vaisnavism from Buddhism by grace of Gour Govinda's preaching. Sitting next to me, he pointed out a black haired lady sitting to the back, "See that mataji," he asked?, "That is GGs's widow.'
Later, I learned through Swayambhu that GGS had two sons, and "Prabhu, would I please arrange for them to go to the gurukula in Mayapura? The widow has not got the ability to care for these boys nicely." This we did by contacting Jayapataka Swami, and all was arranged for this. Maharajah apparently then left behind two sons not that old enough or with households of their own, to pursue Krsna in his mission, making sacrifice of his earthly family for all of our sakes. Maharajah never mentioned them or any of this, he did not spend his words talking of old family matters.
Upon departure, I had one case of Bhagavata Darshana, maybe 100 magazines. Standing in the pathway, near the Jagnathapur "bus station", I called out, "Bhagavata Darshana! donna ek rupiya ! " The 100 case was gone as fast as I could hand them out and take in rupees.
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Replies
Hare Krishna. All glories to Srila Prabhupada. The photo of the landscape reminds me so much of Fiji. It has those beautiful peaked hills and so much lush greenery. Mostly in the Nadi area. Nandi, after Lord Shiva's bull. I had been following Swami Ramdevi's instructions for yoga pranayam..no food for 4 hours before. I always found that difficult to arrange. Srila Gurudeva's instruction no food or drink for 1 hour before then wait 3 hours after seems like it would be more do-able for me. So you were the only white bodied bhakta with Srila Gurudeva? I marvel at your good fortune to have had his association in a favorable way. Krishna has blessed you. Hare Krishna.
article above fixed. Thank you! You should be an Editor here.
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THE ENTHUSIASM!
The original article was back in the stacks, few years ago, the video no longer available. It was likely also posted here in videos, circa 2014. I should search the videos section using GGS or Gour and see.
Haha! Recipes? I've got lots. ps we have a Kitchen group here, pretty spontaneous.
So nice to see you here, thanks for favoring us with some time.
The scene is i think andhra pradesh or somewhere further south, but it was green enough to match the need for a visual of the Jharikhanda forest of rural Orissa after a big rainfall..
pamho
Rasamanjari Devi dasi said:
Hare Krishna. All glories to Srila Gurudeva and Srila Prabhupada. The video is unavailable to me? and where is the lanscape photo of? So beautiful.
How nice! Thank you. What wonderful times. I think if you don't share the recipes too, i am going to scream. Hare Krishna. Haribol.!!! Jaya Srila Gurudeva. Jaya Srila Prabhupada.